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General Husbandry Tips for Aquatic Turtles

by Tony Smith

There is no reason for keeping ill turtles. First, begin with only healthy captive-bred animals. I prefer to begin with very young specimens, as I find monitoring their growth one of the most enjoyable aspects of keeping turtles. Clean water, proper temperature, and nutritious food are the three most important husbandry needs for young turtles.

Proper housing makes for cleaner water and less work. For hatchlings or young turtles, use plastic storage boxes with approximately two to three inches of water. Plastic is much lighter than glass when lifting the boxes to make water changes. For larger turtles, I like galvanized cattle watering tanks, These are available at farm equipment stores in any size. These tanks have drains which can be fitted with a garden hose to make water changes easier. I use screw caps at the end of the hoses. By keeping the tanks in a heated basement by a drain, no lifting of water is necessary. It is hard to avoid spilling some water on the floor, however, so keeping the turtles' tanks in the basement, away from carpet and furnishings, will make your spouse happy.

Do not use gravel, sand, or any other substrate in the tank. The turtles get no benefit from it, and the substrate can trap feces and propagate bacteria. It is nearly impossible to thoroughly clean heavy gravel. Sometimes turtles may ingest the gravel, which can cause bowel impactions if not passed.

Filtration is a must unless you plan to change the water once or twice daily. Submersible filters such as the Fluval 4 work well, but the filter medium needs to be changed every ten days -- even if the water appears clean. Bacteria can build up in this material quickly, possibly causing fatalities. The filter should agitate the surface of the water to prevent an oily surface appearance. With powerful filters, be sure the suction tube is fitted with some sort of screen. Small turtles' appendages can be sucked into the tubing, and the turtle could drown. Change one-half to three quarters of the water weekly (the filter can remain running) or as often as time permits. With the above system, a total cleaning of the setup will only be necessary every six to eight weeks (depending an the size and number of turtles). To avoid back injuries from lifting heavy tanks, screw a garden hose onto your basement sink when refilling the tank. A "Python" siphon system, available in pet stores, will also simplify the emptying and filling process. Avoid sudden water temperature changes that may occur when making water changes. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the new water. Add a dechlorinator to the water to avoid irritating the turtles' eyes.

To ensure the appropriate temperature for your captives, research the temperature needs of your particular species. Many turtles need temperatures from 75-85°F [24-29°C]. I keep mine at 81°F [27°C] and have had no illnesses. This range is not correct for all species, however; it may kill a hardy cold-water species such as the Chinese big-headed turtle. For keeping the temperature constant, a submersible heater works well and may be used in shallow water if necessary. If you are maintaining large turtles, secure submersible heaters well. The heater may break if exposed to air, electrocuting the inmates.

Never hibernate your turtles unless you are completely sure you can provide the correct conditions. Instead, try reducing the temperature from November through February, and decrease the amount of food by one half. If any problems arise, return the turtles to normal temperatures.

Basking is necessary for most turtle species. A forty-watt incandescent light bulb is sufficient. Place the light over a gently sloping ramp so the turtle may exit the water without difficulty. This will prevent hatchlings from drowning. Place the light toward one end of the tank to create a cool and warm end for thermoregulation. Be sure if using rocks in the tank that all surfaces are smooth to prevent abrasions on the turtles' skin or plastron.

Many turtles are shy and will dive into the water at the least disturbance. Do not place any decorations below the basking area, and provide sufficient water depth to avoid injuries when the turtles dive. The only decoration necessary in the turtles' habitat is plastic greenery for hiding. Some turtles also like to sleep in these "plastic hammocks" at night.

Ultraviolet fluorescent light is critical for turtles' health -- especially in winter in order for them to properly utilize calcium and to properly assimilate their food, as well as for curing minor scratches or skin ailments. Often a "dusk to dawn" photo period effect is necessary for turtles to breed. Never place turtles in a glass aquarium outdoors or indoors near a window, as glass heats up too quickly, soon making the water inside extremely hot. Children's wading pools work well outdoors. A screen cover may be necessary for hatchlings or small turtles if cats, dogs, children, or birds are nearby. Always provide shade when turtles are outdoors. I once lost three pancake tortoises by leaving them outside without shade with the temperature only 70°F [21°C]. If outdoors temperature permit (sunny and over 50 to 60°F [10-16°C]), five to twenty minutes of direct sunlight daily is beneficial. Two hours of direct sunlight per day is optimum.

A nutritious diet will help keep your turtles healthy. The best staple diet consists of pelleted food, such as Tetra Reptomin floating food sticks. It is sometimes difficult to get new captives to eat these sticks, but with perseverance, it can usually be done. It is much easier to train young turtles; thus, buy captive-bred specimens. To my knowledge, some turtles, such as snake necks, have never been successfully converted to these food sticks. Some aquatic turtles will refuse pelleted food items until near starvation. Even then, some specimens will not recognize the prepared foods as food. I do not have the patience to wait until my turtles reach this point. If your turtle is not a convert after weeks or months of trying, vitamins and calcium supplements are a must. Cod liver oil and bone meal are also beneficial. Remember that cod liver oil is toxic when expired! To administer these supplements to my turtles, I coat cut up fish, preferably containing small bones, with Rep Cal and Rep Cal Herptivite multivitamins as a staple for the snake necks. Experimentally I have fed hatchlings exclusively on food sticks for a full year with perfect growth. Hatchlings require small cut up earthworms for their first meals; the movement stimulates their appetites. After the first couple of weeks of eating earthworms, the hatchlings will begin taking the pelleted food.

Other food items for turtles consist of insects, canned tuna and salmon (watch for too much salt with canned food), cooked chicken or turkey, IAMS cat food, tender vittles, Purina trout chow, catfish chow, high quality/low fat dog food such as Purina One, dark greens, fruits and vegetables. Never feed your turtles ant eggs, mealworms, hamburger, or iceberg lettuce; these foods have no nutritional value themselves, and your pet will literally starve to death. Remember that a varied diet will stimulate your turtle to eat. Research whether your turtle species is strictly carnivorous, herbivorous, or omnivorous.

Some turtles must be fed individually if they are not as aggressive as others and therefore may not get enough to eat. You may need to leave the room before they will eat. Count the food items to make sure they are all eaten. Feed adults three times per week and hatchlings once or twice daily. Allow the turtles to feed for twenty minutes. The warmer the water, the hungrier the turtles will be. Always feed your turtles in a smaller separate container to prevent the pollution of the main habitat [by] uneaten food. This technique also promotes good health, because aquatic turtles must feed under water, and a separate container will provide clean water in which they can feed. Turtles are often so anxious to eat that they will begin feeding before you have released them into the feeding container. After they feed, always rinse the turtles off, rubbing their shells with your finger or a toothbrush. Oil in the food will adhere to the turtles' bodies and foul the water in their tank.

Always keep aggressive species such as snappers, soft-shelled, and musk turtles individually. Scratches from their sharp claws and beaks can become infected. I have even heard of beheadings. Only keep turtles of approximately the same size together. Use common sense.

Improper diet and lack of natural sunlight are the causes of most turtle illnesses. Newly acquired and sick turtles should be isolated for at least one month and observed for disease symptoms before being placed with your other turtles. Flakes, lumps, or gray spots are symptoms of fungus. Tropical fish remedies can be used in the turtles' water. Non-iodized salt (aquarium salt) also works well as a disease preventative. Use one-fourth cup to five gallons of water for brief periods. Treat shell fungus by dipping the turtle in either Betadine solution, 5% iodine, or 2% gentian violet. Allow the turtle's shell to dry before placing it back in the water. Do not use iodine on skin fungus. Treat skin fungus with gentian violet, salt, and water paste or Neosporin ointment. Sunlight and clean water is essential for proper healing.

Improper diet and lack of natural sunlight can also cause swollen eyes and soft shell. Swollen eyes are usually from a lack of Vitamin A (found in cod liver oil). If natural sunlight cannot be provided in the winter, use ultraviolet light (such as a Vita Lite) and Vitamin D3 supplements. Turtles with swollen, puffy eyes also benefit from ophthalmic ointment, Panalog ointment, Terramycin, or A and D ointment. For medication to be most effective, place it under the turtle's eyelids.

If your turtle has a runny nose, bubbles forming at its nose, or is gasping, it has a respiratory illness. This ailment is caused by improper diet, drafts, or abrupt temperature changes. Isolate the turtle in a quiet place, keeping it at 85°F [29°C], to quicken recovery. Some pet or drug stores carry tetracycline. Add one tetracycline capsule (250 mg) to one gallon of water. Change the water with the tetracycline added to it twice a day for five days.

Turtles also suffer cuts, bites, and scratches. Treat these wounds with terramycin, Panalog, or neosporin. Apply the medication twice a day and keep the animal dry for one hour after application. If you keep your turtles outdoors in warm weather, bring all injured specimens indoors or maggots will result from flies laying eggs in the wounds. Call a veterinarian experienced in treating turtles if necessary. Time is critical, because the affliction may be fatal by the time you observe symptoms.